The Perfect 4 Days
I created a 4 day itinerary that covers all of the must-see sights in Taiwan in one neatly planned timeline - and shares with you my personal picks and local commentary. Each day covers one theme, with multiple options for each category so that you can customize to the things that you like.
Day 1 ... Food
Day 2 ... Culture
Day 3 ... Crazy Rich Asians
Day 4 ... Nature
—
Day 1 ... Food
morning // day market
lunch // iconic food #1 // dumplings
afternoon // traditional dry goods
dinner // iconic food #2 // taiwanese
after hours // night market
MORNING // DAY MARKET. I know you're here for the famous night markets (voted #1 in the world on CNN) but they don't get going until 8pm. Until then - the day markets are just as awesome, and even more authentic as many locals (including celebrities) do their actual shopping there. There are many markets throughout the city, and the 2 that I can vouch for are Nanmen Market and Shuanglian Market. Each one historically catered to a different ethnic group of Taiwanese, and I have one parent from each, so I grew up going to both.
LUNCH // DUMPLINGS AND BOBA. Two of Taiwan's most famous exports after semiconductor chips. For dumplings, go to Din Tai Fung. For boba, head to Chun Shui Tang - the original inventor of boba and my personal favorite. In terms of brand position and quality, Chun Shui Tang and TenRen are akin to the Blue Bottle of boba. Random boba shops that you see on the street are like Starbucks.
AFTERNOON // TRADITIONAL DRY GOODS. Head to the Dadaocheng neighborhood and Dihua Street. Before the microchip and manufacturing came along, this was the economic center of Taipei. Like Rome on the banks of the Tiber River, Taipei started on the banks of the Tamsui River. Dihua Street is the oldest in Taipei and has a rich history. My great-grandfather based his import/export business here in the 1930s. Today it's been revitalized as a trendy destination with hipster cafes and bars tucked into restored "heritage houses." Chinese herbs, traditional snacks, woven baskets, dried fruits, spices - it's all here. This is an incredible guide that gives a full rundown of where to go. Don't be fooled by the shabby exteriors or shopkeepers that act like friendly grandpas - these businesses gave rise to an entire generation of old money. Among certain circles, name dropping that you own a business on Dihua Street is a subtle social calling card.
DINNER // TAIWANESE BANQUET. While the food at street markets is like burgers and tacos, there is also an entire category of Taiwanese fine dining dishes served at banquets and weddings - uniquely delicious and not to be missed! Your choices: Shin Yeh at the original location on Shuangcheng Street for the history since the 1970s, Shin Yeh Taipei 101 for the view, or Mipon at the Grand Mayfull Hotel for a modern take with a Michelin star, in over the top luxurious settings. Must orders: fried liver, turnip omelette, stir fried oysters in black bean sauce, mullet roe. For a budget-friendly option, head to the Michelin-approved Moon Moon Food, where TSMC Chairman Morris Chen has been known to eat, and where you can get a full plate of fresh oysters for about $7 and their signature chicken soup.
AFTER HOURS // NIGHT MARKET. This is what you came for. Your choices: Shilin Market is the biggest although a bit touristy - you should still go for the experience if you are a first timer. Ningxia was the most authentic and my favorite (also that of Nvidia CEO Jensen Huang) but has become a victim of its own fame in recent years. My only issue with "touristy" is because the food stalls don't need repeat business, hence no guarantee of quality - but there are still plenty of good options to be found. The Michelin Bib Gourmand includes several night market stalls, so you can check it to find specific ones!
For vegetarian options at lunch: Din Tai Fung has vegetarian versions of both its famous dumplings and buns, as well as vegetarian fried rice (don't sleep on it - fried rice is a classic culinary test for Chinese chefs - like making a rolled omelette - and theirs is top tier). Over half of their appetizers are also unique vegetarian dishes - bamboo sprouts, kao fu (a special kind of spongey tofu), braised eggplant, wood ear mushrooms - and their House Special Mix is my all time favorite and must order. For vegetarian options at dinner: At Shin Yeh, order the "run bing" (unique Taiwanese spring roll), turnip omelette, braised tofu claypot, yam congee, and stir fried veggies.
—
Day 2 ... Culture
morning // temple
lunch // iconic food #3 // vegetarian
afternoon // tea shops
dinner // iconic food #4 // sushi
after hours // massage
Among its fellow Asian cities, Taipei is known for its unique mix of old and new and historical preservation - sleek skyscrapers and world leading technology alongside centuries old temples and traditional tea farms. This itinerary is planned to show you both - tomorrow you'll visit the skyscrapers, but today we're headed to the oldest parts of the city, where traditional culture has been passed down for generations and is still a central part of life today. This is where I grew up!
MORNING // TEMPLE. Pick one based on what you want to pray for because each temple worships a different deity - each deity oversees one sector of life, like a secular government: Bao An Temple (health), Xing Tian Temple (business success), Wenchang Temple (academic success), Xiahai City God Temple (getting married or marital harmony), Longshan Temple (children, temple is devoted to Guanyin the Goddess of Mercy). Most guidebooks will recommend Longshan but it can get crowded - Bao An is the prettiest (also a UNESCO site) and my personal favorite, Xing Tian is the most popular with locals (seeing 10,000 visitors per day) and I grew up going there with my grandparents. Note that these temples are not strictly Buddhist, but rather a unique blend of Taiwanese religion that combines folk religion, Daoism, and Buddhism.
LUNCH // VEGETARIAN. Chinese food is often stereotyped as unhealthy and lacking in vegetarian options - based on versions in the US - nothing is farther from the truth! Actually, many traditional Chinese and Taiwanese dishes are "naturally" vegan or vegetarian. For one, there is a large Buddhist population. For another - many people simply could not afford to eat meat in the past. In fact, 13% of Taiwan's population is vegetarian and and it is consistently ranked as a top destination for vegan food. This gives a great history (with delicious looking photos) of vegetarian dishes in Taiwan. The star is tofu. There is a dizzying array of tofu dishes in every form: artisanal raw tofu, tofu with preserved eggs, stinky tofu, "red roasted" tofu, bean curd in sesame oil, shredded tofu noodles with cilantro and chilies, stir fried bean curd with bell peppers, smoked tofu sheets with mushrooms. Taiwanese style bean curd is one of my all time favorite things to eat and it's impossible to find in the US, so definitely try it! There are also many vegetarian options besides tofu. For carbs: Try scallion pancakes, fried dough, grilled turnip cakes, roasted yams. For desserts: Tofu pudding, red bean soup, peanut mochi, sweet dumplings in rice wine, shaved ice. The best part for me is that these are all "naturally" vegetarian in their original and tastiest form - not "modified" versions that use substitute ingredients.
You will spot all of these dishes at street stalls (**) and markets. To find many of them reliably in one place, head to 億長御坊 (Yi Chang Yu Fang) which has kiosks in many department stores - Foxconn CEO Terry Guo catered from them for his second wedding. For lunch today, we're headed to Yongkang Street which has several internationally famous street stalls that ( just happen to ) serve vegetarian food - first stop at Xiao Nan Men for tofu pudding, then to Tian Jin Onion Pancake for scallion pancakes, then end at Smoothie House for the famous Taiwanese mango shaved ice. This is a great food guide to the area, and this has a ton of info about vegetarian food in Taiwan in general.
AFTERNOON // TEA SHOPS. Explore Yongkang Street. Was selected by Time Out as #4 on their list of "coolest streets in the world" and has become super crowded and popular. Full of both heritage and modern tea shops. Pick any one - make sure you go past the main street and down the back alleys to find hidden gems. 冶堂 (Ye Tang) is a very famous artisanal tea grower and has affordable options for $25 (some rare tea can run into the thousands of dollars). When you enter a tea shop, you can sit down with the shop owner and they will give you a tea tasting like a wine tasting. Once you've had tea here, every boba shop in the US will taste like sugary water in comparison. If you only visit one spot in Taipei, I would suggest Yongkang Street because it's so unique - I haven't seen anything else like this.
DINNER // SUSHI. Outside of Japan, Taiwan is where I have had the best sushi in the world, and is actually the thing I eat most often in Taiwan. The availability and price-value ratio are unbeatable. Much cheaper than the US for the same (or better) quality. Pick based on your price range: omakase ($100-300pp, check Michelin guide or food blogs), Mitsui for a unique Taiwanese-influenced take ($70-100pp, Dazhi location has a beautiful interior with live fish tanks), or Sushi Yamato in Zhongshan District for a reliable and filling meal ($2-5 for nigiri, $16 for premium sushi set, $3 for handrolls).
AFTER HOURS // MASSAGE. I recommend getting massages as often as you can in Taiwan because the price-value ratio is unparalleled. You can get an excellent massage at a reputable midrange place for $40-50 per hour (see my directory for places I have been to and can vouch for). Not a fancy spa, but the interior is on par with a standard office building. (You can find even cheaper massages in street stalls for $10-15 if you prefer.) Keep in mind that when you see foot massages and traditional full body massages listed, those are traditional Chinese techniques ie. sharp pressure on specific points which is sometimes quite painful - but effective. If you want a more relaxing massage, go for the "oil massage" which is more like a traditional Swedish.
For vegetarian options at dinner: There is not much in the way of vegetarian sushi, but you can stick with the Japanese theme by heading to Two Half Moons for delicious handmade soba (tell them when you order that you want vegetarian dipping sauce / broth). (**) Caveat that when eating at street stalls, it can be hard to determine if food has been fried in animal fat or if seasonings may contain animal products. Taipei does have many strictly vegan or vegetarian restaurants - check my directory for some options, and there are also blogs devoted to this!
—
Day 3 ... Crazy Rich Asians
morning // palace museum
lunch // afternoon tea
afternoon // shopping
dinner // michelin restaurant
after hours // national concert hall
Apparently Taipei is #9 among world cities for the number of ultra high net worth individuals who live here (I had no idea). This gives an interesting look into the wealth culture. That said, what I personally appreciate about Taiwan is the high levels of income equality that improve everyday life for all - imo this is what gives new meaning to being a "rich" society. Today is all about experiencing the finer (material) things in life - food, shopping, art, people watching!
MORNING // NATIONAL PALACE MUSEUM. Time to sleep in. Hahaha. But if you want to be an overachiever ... the National Palace Museum is the top destination in the world for classical Chinese art as much of it was taken out of China to preserve it during WWII and the Communist Revolution. The museum itself is also beautiful and set on the mountainside. I am usually more into modern art museums and somewhat lazy - but I have to admit the Palace Museum is truly world-class - it holds paintings, calligraphy, jade and bronze sculptures, artifacts from over 8000 years of Chinese history.
LUNCH // AFTERNOON TEA. Afternoon tea - whether at a fancy hotel or local cafe - is a popular social tradition in Taiwan, and almost every cafe has a teatime menu from 2 to 5 pm. For a classic 3 tier in over the top settings, every guidebook will recommend The Jade Lounge at the Mandarin Oriental. It's good, but the Regent is my personal favorite for people watching (also featured in the 2014 film Lucy as a set location). You can find Harry Winston, Bulgari, Hermes, Chanel in the lobby - and on people passing by. The classic 3 tier set is not in vogue anymore and few places will serve it, but grab a comfy seat in the second floor lounge instead and people watch all day. The lounge food is good - I love the Caesar salad and the risotto, although ironically their actual tea is meh.
AFTERNOON // SHOPPING and CAFE HOPPING. Pick based on your price range and style: Zhongshan District is my personal favorite for the atmosphere and a mix of high-low. Many cool boutiques and cafes hidden in a maze of historic back alleys - I always stop by Maji Treats (gourmet grocery) and Wam (black and white streetwear - surprisingly both my mom and I love their pieces). Many Instagrammable cafes with more people watching - try Marais / Lille M and Cafe Lumiere at SPOT. The neon signs light up at 5pm, giving the whole area a cyberpunk feel. This area is low to midrange in price point and popular with Gen Z. For Vince / AYR / Abbot Kinney price points and branding, head to Songshan Cultural Park (boutiques and cafes set in a reclaimed tobacco factory) and the flagship Eslite (select shop) next to it. I always stop by Olivia Yao (award winning Taiwanese jewelry designer) and Cha Zu Tang and Yuan Soaps (herbal skincare) in Eslite. For the highest in luxury, head to Bella Vita, a shopping complex founded by a Taiwanese socialite who wanted to gather all her favorite brands in one place. I always stop by "one fifteen" and "03" - high end select shops that curate a uniquely Taiwanese aesthetic - sparkly, whimsical, fun. If you walk outside and head toward Taipei 101, you'll pass every international luxury brand along the way - Chanel, Dior, Prada, Van Cleef & Arpels, plus brands like Off-White and Linda Farrow.
DINNER // MICHELIN RESTAURANT. Taipei has 35 restaurants with Michelin stars at last count. Pick any one. I rarely eat Western food in Taiwan bc I live in the US (so I wanna fill up on things I can't get there), but it's quite good. For a budget-friendlier option, head to Four Food Depot at Bella Vita, where you can get a super blinged out rice bowl topped with uni and wagyu for $20.
AFTER HOURS // NATIONAL CONCERT HALL. The architecture is stunning and a lot of world famous groups perform here. Depending on who's performing - the symphony at Christmas Eve is a good bet - you'll see a ton of elegant people dressed in fur coats and bling.
For vegetarian options at lunch: The Regent does have pasta and salad options. Alternately - head to Bagan Hood in the trendy Songshan District, a stylish vegan cafe where you may not see the crazy rich, but you will see a lot of hipsters and the occasional Buddhist monk. For vegetarian options at dinner: You can try Yu Shan Ge for an elegant tasting menu or Serenity for Sichuan food, along with several other vegetarian options featured by Michelin.
—
Day 4 ... Nature
morning // hike
lunch // on the mountain
afternoon // hot springs
dinner // by the river
after hours // karaoke
Many visitors to Taiwan stick to the city sights and food, but if so you'll miss the thing that makes Taiwan truly special - the stunning natural scenery. More so than the night markets and shopping, this is the aspect of Taiwan that I love the most - not just the nature itself, but the strong connection to nature that permeates local culture and geography. Taiwan is a (sub)tropical island after all - Taipei itself is built on two rivers inside a circle of mountains. You will understand once you hike it!
MORNING // HIKE. My absolute favorite thing to do in Taiwan is go for a hike - the mountain scenery is lush and mystical - dormant volcanoes and waterfalls in the jungle. In fact, 70% of Taiwan is mountains and it has the greatest density of high mountains in the world - hiking is a national pastime. For an easy hike, head to Jiantan Mountain at Jiantan MRT or Elephant Mountain at Xiangshan MRT - these are not the most remote or stunning trails (although Elephant Mountain is now Insta famous), but I've picked them to illustrate how accessible nature is - these are small mountains located smack in the center of the city, literally a few steps away from public transit. My great-grandma used to hike Jiantan every morning at 5am. For avid hikers, head to Qixing (Seven Star) Mountain which is the highest in Taipei, with elevation gain of about 1500 feet. This is a great guide with beautiful photos and more info.
LUNCH // ON THE MOUNTAIN. Head to "The Top" restaurant at the top of Yang Ming Shan, where you can sit in a private cabana with views over the city and grill meat. See this blog for photos and info. Yes, the same mountain area is home to hiking trails, cemeteries, and an over the top party restaurant. That's the free-spirited attitude of Taiwan that I love. Update: "The Top" is now open only for dinner. I will update when I have a new rec I can personally vouch for!
AFTERNOON // HOT SPRINGS. Finish your trip with some self care! Which relaxes you more - a good workout or a long bath? Hahaha. Your choice: If you're the active type, rent a bike at Guandu MRT and cycle - or run - along an 8 km flat trail from there to Tamsui Riverfront. At the riverfront, you'll be rewarded with more tasty street food in a scenic waterfront market. Along the way, you'll pass by mangrove trees, wild herons catching crabs along the river, packs of stray dogs sunning themselves on the grass (they are legit super cute and not scary) and local fishermen in wooden boats. This is an excellent guide to the trail and attractions. If you're the lazy type, go soak in a hot springs instead. Hehe. There are tons of hot springs around Beitou (easy to google) and the super luxurious Grand View Resort Beitou. Taiwan's hot springs are famous for being naturally sulfurous, not just hot water.
DINNER // BY THE RIVER. If you made it to Tamsui, stick around for the sunset and night lights over the river which are beautiful. The Danjiang Bridge, designed by Zaha Hadid, is scheduled to be completed in 2024. For the best view, keep walking along the wharf past the street market until you reach a row of cute and romantic cafes that sit right along the river. Head for this cafe on Google Maps and you'll end up in the right place. Caveat that the food is decent but not spectacular - you're here mostly for the ambiance. Otherwise if you are still in Taipei, finish up at the classic department store basement food court, where you can get all kinds of food and pick up snacks and gifts before heading home - and make sure to stop by c!tysuper or Breeze Super for a gourmet grocery shopping experience. If you are into tea, Tun Ting Oolong or No. 18 Black Tea are specialty varietals unique to Taiwan.
AFTER HOURS // KARAOKE. I am not a huge karaoke person, but it seems like everyone else in Taiwan is. Karaoke in Taiwan (as is common throughout Asia) is a fancy affair - it's common to get a private room and you can order tons of hot dishes and snacks to be delivered. They usually have at least some English language songs - get ready to sing a lot of Backstreet Boys and Britney Spears :)
For vegetarian options at lunch: The Top has many vegetarian options on the menu. Try the vegetarian hotpot, handmade noodles, stir fried sweet potato leaves, and deep fried bitter melon. For vegetarian options at dinner: Most food courts will have some vegetarian options, such as a salad bar or grain bowls, or vegetarian noodles or hotpot.
Note: The nature itinerary above is a good "bite sized sampler" meant to cover many popular outdoor activities at once - I am writing up some more unique alternatives for those who want a full nature experience that you can only get in Taiwan - organized by theme. In the meantime, you can google: Silver Stream Cave (waterfalls and jungle), Mysterious Coast at Jinshan (seaside), Bishan Temple (mountaintop), where to see wild macaques on Yang Ming Shan. Stay tuned!